Hoʻolaha ka hae i ka laina hōʻike ma 27th Street ma Manhattan, akā naʻe, hoʻomākaukau paha kekahi mau mea kipa i ka Hale Hōʻikeʻike FIT no ka mea e kali iā lākou ma "Charming: A Rose in Fashion."
ʻO "Charming: A Rose in Fashion" ka hōʻike mua ma hope o ka pani ʻana o ka ʻoihana. E wehe ākea ana ka hōʻike ma ʻAukake 6 a e mau ana a hiki i Nowemapa 12.
Ua hoʻonani ʻia ka hōʻailona paia a i ka papa i loko o ka lumi moe me nā kumu rose a hoʻopuni i kahi kiʻi nui o kekahi o nā mea he 130 a ʻoi e hōʻike ʻia ana ma mua o ʻekolu mau kenekulia-V. ʻO Buso stilettos-a me nā kumu waina i hoʻopili ʻia a puni ka puka o ka hōʻike. ʻO ke alapiʻi kūiki e hōʻike ana i kona hanohano a me ka immersive, akā e mahalo i nā moemoeā o kāna ʻoihana maʻamau, pono i kekahi e hele i loko.
Māhele ʻia ka hōʻike i ʻelua mau keʻena. ʻO ka mea mua, kahi hale e hoʻomanaʻo ai i ka hale pani, e hōʻike ana i nā pāpale pua rose-loihi mai nā milliners o ka honua a me nā ʻoihana hoʻolālā ʻano ma nā kū lōʻihi i kūkulu ʻia, e hana ana i kahi ulu ma lalo o ka mālamā i loko o ka māla. Wahi a ka hale hōʻikeʻike, ua komo pū ka hale hōʻikeʻike ma mua o 75 kiʻi paʻi kiʻi maoli o nā poʻe e kau ana i nā roses mai nā 1850 a i ka 1920. Wahi a ka ʻaoʻao pūnaewele o ka hōʻike e “ʻoi aku ana ka maʻalahi o ke kiʻi ʻia ʻana o nā studio a me nā kiʻi paʻi kiʻi amatir.”
Lawe ka hale hōʻikeʻike nui i ka manaʻo o ka pua o ka inoa like i kahi pae hou i ka mahi mahi. Hoʻonani ʻia nā paia me nā rosa palupalu, hoʻohanohano ke mele kāʻei kua iā lākou, a ʻo ka ʻaoʻao alanui e hoʻopaʻa ʻia e nā kākā māla. ʻO ka hiʻohiʻona ʻoi loa o ka hale hōʻikeʻike ke ala maʻamau o ka hōʻike ʻana i nā mea. ʻAʻole hoʻonohonoho ʻia lākou i ke kaʻina o ka manawa. Akā, ʻo nā ʻāpana i hoʻolaʻa ʻia i nā kala kikoʻī-ʻulaʻula, ʻulaʻula keʻokeʻo a keʻokeʻo, ʻeleʻele a me ke koena "huikau" -a me kā lākou manaʻo moʻomeheu hōʻailona e wehewehe kikoʻī ʻia ma o nā plak ʻikepili ma ka hōʻike.
I kekahi ʻano, ua like ka ʻuhane o ka hōʻike ponoʻī me ka rose. Inā pua nā mea i hōʻike ʻia i nā ʻano kamahaʻo, a laila nā ʻike e hoʻopuni iā lākou e like me nā kumu i hāʻawi i nā hana nui ma ka hōʻike ʻana i ka mōʻaukala o ko lākou ola a me nā manaʻo o ka hoʻolālā nāna lākou i hana.
ʻO kekahi o nā hōʻailona mua i hōʻike ʻia i loko o ka hōʻike e hōʻike ana pehea e hoʻohana ai i ka hōʻailona o ka rose ma ke ʻano he aniani e nānā a hōʻino i ke kaiāulu. Hōʻike ka lōkō i ka like ʻole o ka hana ʻana i nā pua ʻimi hoʻopunipuni i koʻikoʻi i nā kūlanakauhale kūlahi nui mai nā 1860 a i nā 1960 mua. Ma Palisa, he kālepa ʻoihana kēia ma o nā haumāna, akā ma Nu Ioka a me Lākana, ua like ka hana like ʻana o nā huahana me nā mākua a me nā keiki ma lalo o ka sweatshop. Hoʻopili ʻia kēia huahana e nā wai ʻona, nā uahi hoʻomehana, a me ka lawa ʻole o ke kukui.
ʻOkoʻa paha ke au o kēia manawa, akā aia nā pilikia hoʻomohala hoʻokele a me ke kaiapuni i ka hana nui ʻana o nā lole mea kūʻai.
Hoʻokumu ʻia kēlā me kēia ʻāpana kala-kala o ka lua o nā kiʻi ma nā pahuhopu lolo o ka hōʻike mua. Hōʻike ka pūnaewele o ka hale hōʻikeʻike i nā ʻaoʻao ʻelua e pili maʻamau i nā ʻano ʻokoʻa o ka wahine. Pili ʻo Red i ka "aloha, ke aloha a me ke aloha", ʻoiai keʻokeʻo a keʻokeʻo a pink i hōʻailona i ka "hana makua-mai ka hānau ʻana a i ka male" a me "ka lilo o ka puʻupaʻa a me ka make".
I kahi ʻoihana e nānā maʻamau i nā wahine ma ke ʻano he mea kūʻai nui akā ka mea nona ka papa kiʻekiʻe e nā kāne keʻokeʻo, he mea hoihoi loa ka hana ʻana o ka wahine. Ua hoʻoholo ka hale hōʻikeʻike e kiʻi hou i ka hana a Ninomiya Noir Kei Ninomiya, nona nā lole elaborate i hoʻohālikelike ʻia me ka nui o nā pua, e hoʻohui ana i kahi kuanaʻike hou i ke kamaʻilio. ʻO ka Ninomiya laser-cut mea i kau nui ʻia ma ke kaula ʻili hana maʻalahi i la Mad Max, e hoʻohui ana i ka lihi wiwo ʻole a me ka leʻa. ʻ sayslelo ka pūnaewele o ka hale hōʻikeʻike “e hōʻole i nā manaʻo palupalu e pili ana i nā pua a i ʻole nā wahine.”
Ua komo pū ka ʻāpana ʻulaʻula i loko o nā ʻano ʻōlelo like ʻole o ka sociopolitical, e like me ka lole Prabal Gurung me ke kāʻei, e nīnau ana "ʻO wai e lilo i ʻAmelika?" Mai kāna hōʻike hoʻoulu makahiki 2020. Ke manaʻo nei ua ʻae ʻo Gurung i ka pahuhopu ma mua o ka hoʻolaha ʻia ʻana o ke kumuhana ʻo Met Gala's 2021 "In America", he mea maikaʻi ke hōʻike ʻia kāna hana ma ke kapeta ʻulaʻula a ke hōʻike ʻia nei i kēia manawa i ka hōʻike "In" ma ka Anna Wintour Costume Center. . ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa: Papa Wehewehe ʻAno. ”
Hoʻohui ʻoluʻolu ka ʻāpana ʻeleʻele i ka nani kilakila a me ka ensemble ʻono Gothic, ʻoiai ka ʻāpana hui e hōʻoia i ka nānā ʻana o ka hōʻike ma ke kāne kāne ma o ka hōʻike ʻana i nā roses o nā kāne a me ka hoʻolālā kūlike ʻole.
Hōʻike ka mea hoʻolālā kūʻokoʻa ʻo New York ʻo Neil Grotzinger i nā hana i hōʻike i kona hōʻole ʻana i ke kāne kāne ʻona a me ka hoʻokahuli erotic, ka hoʻohana ʻana o nā mea kuhi wahine a me ka hoʻohana politika o ka transparency. Hōʻike ka pūnaewele o ka hale hōʻikeʻike i kāna hōʻiliʻili "e nānā i nā manaʻo o ke kāne, ka wahine aliʻi, ka mana, a me ka moekolohe".
ʻO nā kuleana kāne, e like me nā rosa hana, kaena i ka hoʻopunipuni o ke kūlohelohe, hūnā i ka hana a me ke kumu ma hope o kā lākou kūkulu a mālama. Eia nō naʻe, ke hoʻomau ʻia nei ka hoʻouka kaua ʻana i nā kuleana o ka transgender maʻamau a me ka poʻe kāne ʻole, ʻo ka hoihoi o ka mode mainstream i hermaphrodite he retrogressive, "ʻano ʻē" hoihoi voyeuristic, a i ʻole he hōʻailona o ka moeʻuhane. E nānā i hiki i kahi kanaka marginalized ke palekana a hōʻike hauʻoli hoʻi e pili ana kāna ao i ka ʻoiaʻiʻo.
ʻO ka mea hope loa, mahalo i ke komo ʻana o ʻekolu mau mōʻaukala kū i ke ʻano, "Intoxicking: The Rose in Fashion" i ʻae ʻia kahi loiloi aʻo o ke ʻano: MFIT Luna Hoʻokele a me Luna Nui Curator Valerie Steel a me ke Kula Lāʻau Hoʻohanohano o London ʻo Amy de Co-curator o la Haye a me Coron Hill, kahu o MFIT. Aia pū me ia ka hōʻike ola me kahi seminā ʻike kamepiula i mālama ʻia ma ʻApelila 30. Aia ʻelima mau haʻiʻōlelo, i hiki ke nānā ʻia ma ke kahawai YouTube o MFIT, a me kahi puke o ka inoa like na de la Haye i paʻi ʻia e Yale University Press.
ʻAʻole pono nā New Yorkers e hoʻonele iā lākou iho i ka manawa kūpono e hōʻike ai, ʻo ia hoʻi nā haumāna o Baruch, he 15 mau minuke wale nō ka MFIT mai ke kahua kula.
Ka manawa Post: ʻOkakopa-13-2021
